2 Servants

Market

Servants, like children, can bring joy and sorrow. After we settled into our huge house for a few days, we had to choose which servants we wanted. Both of us wanted none, as we liked to do things ourselves, but we both knew that was highly impractical. So we eliminated a cook, as Lois wanted to provide most of the meals. We eliminated an indoor sweeper too, as it seemed like the house would become a zoo. We decided on a bearer, a laundry man (dhobi), (pronounced dough bee), and an outside sweeper.

Of course we have our “limo” drivers, but we share them with the other USAF couple, (the Madsen’s) who live a mile or two away. Mohammed Usman (Oos mon) Khan drives one car, mainly driving the men back and forth to work at Korangi (Core ang ghee) Creek. Usman is very devout, and loves his time being at PAFCAE, as he can read the Koran. Mohammed Akram Butt drives the other car, and mainly serves the two ladies. Butt is more fun loving, and delights in taking the ladies shopping, or buying naan (hot flat bread from the oven and slathered with ghee), or samosas.

Our bearer Habib (Ha beeb), a small slim guy, is thus really our only servant, since we almost never see the outside sweeper, and Hanif (Ha neef), our dhobi, only comes a couple times a week. Habib tries very hard to please us, and we like him a lot. But he wants to run the household, and that means Lois must give up routines and small tasks that she has always enjoyed, such as cooking her own breakfast or lunch, and assigning places for her clothes and paraphernalia.

Lois would really like to give Habib time off so that he wouldn’t be constantly underfoot. But we are both sure that this would be a huge loss of face for him, because it would show that we can mostly get along without him. We almost can, but we have such a huge place and Lois would be forever cleaning. As an added snag, Habib's English is almost as atrocious as Lois’ Urdu (Oor do), So any small dispute or change in routine involves calling in our drivers who act as interpreters.

Often Lois feels like she’s competing with Habib. He cooks our breakfast and when the men’s driver arrives in our big black AMC Matador, Habib takes Rich's belongings out the back door, and Lois walks with Rich out the front door. We all three arrive at the car at nearly the same time, but Habib hurries a bit so he can get to the car first. Habib then gives Rich his stuff and Lois kisses Rich good bye. It almost feels like Habib is jealous that Rich and Lois get to kiss. 

Hanging on the full bus

Gas costs $1.40 per gallon, so the cars and drivers cost Uncle Sam a pretty penny, and we aren’t sure they're worth it. But there are valid reasons for their existence, such as terrible roads, and even worse drivers. “Allah will provide” is a favorite Pakistani epithet as a donkey-cart turns in front of you, or a big Bedford truck hauling goods from the North pushes you off to the side. 

Lois and Rich have taught themselves to navigate the crazy streets of Karachi, and Rich always feel safer when he drives, even though both our drivers are quite good. The worst part is the feeling of being an ugly American as Rich rides to work or Lois goes to the market. 

Lois really enjoys Butt. It is challenging for her to get around as the drivers are aggressive, 99% male, and testosterone-driven. When Butt is available, Lois and he go out doing errands and shopping. He is very helpful knowing where everything is: where to get the best veggies and fruit, and where to get the best naan and sweet treats. 

Butt is also able to help Lois if she needs help communicating with Habib or a shop keeper. He is very personable, and they have become great buddies. When Lois feels the need for a taste of the US, Butt takes her to the US Consulate, where she goes to the cafeteria, or meets with the Women's Club ladies.

Lastly, chowkidars (cho key dar) guard our compound with its 8-foot walls at night. We rarely interact with them, but Habib loves to fuss at them to assert his status, we think. There is a night chowkidar who patrols a long stretch of our busy street and blows a whistle to keep the chowkidars at all the houses awake. The problem is, if we are not sleeping well that night, the whistle wakes us also. We tried getting Butt to have the guy stop blowing his whistle near our house, but to no avail.